Parade reached out to Dr. Pimple Popperherself, Dr. Sandra Lee, MD of the famed TLC dermatological procedural show, to learn all about pimple patches and how effective they really are. “Yes, they do, but actually not in the way that people believe they work,” Dr. Lee tells Parade. “They mainly work because they keep your hands off your pimples! Much of the damage to the skin, and the worsening of pimples has to do with picking.” Keep reading for more pimple-popping insight from Dr. Lee and other expert dermatologists and aestheticians about pimple patches—how they work, whether they’re safe, and how long patches should stay on your face.

How do pimple patches work?

According to Dr. Lee, it’s the simple act of covering the pimple that really allows it to work its magic. After all, if your blemishes are covered, you can’t pop or pick at them, and that gives them more time to heal. “If you have a pimple patch or even a regular small bandaid, this can help to remind you to keep your fingers off of the area,” Dr. Lee explains. “Picking pimples usually just makes them bigger and angrier-looking, and also increases the risk of infection and permanent scarring.” Dr. Orit Markowitz, MD, a New York City board-certified dermatologist, skin cancer expert, and founder of OptiSkin in NYC, adds that pimples are, in some ways, just a wound—something we tend to forget as we pick at our faces. “With any compromised skin barrier, placing a dressing on the skin definitely helps with wound healing,” Dr. Markowitz explains. “When the patient is picking, scratching or the pimple itself has burst open, many of these hydrocolloid patches that are used for acne are a really good idea because you’re creating a healthy wound dressing for an open wound.”

How long do pimple patches take to work?

It’s an interesting question. Because the real benefit of a pimple patch is that it keeps your hands away from your face, the answer is that it really starts working as soon as you put it on. “They ‘work’ immediately, as soon as you place them, because at that point you can no longer pick at them,” Dr. Lee says. “Some of them are impregnated with anti-acne medication like salicylic acid (ex. Acne Spot Check by SLMDskincare) so, they work even more aggressively to actively treat and resolve a pimple.”

Are pimple patches safe?

If you’re concerned about the safety of pimple patches, don’t be. Dr. Lee adds that there is absolutely no harm in trying to heal your pimple sooner. “They are definitely safe, and I would say are actually a ‘safety tool,’ keeping you from picking a pimple and potentially making things worse.” According to Dr. Markowitz, pimple patches are one of the safest, most effective routes a wanna-be pimple-popper can go. “People tend to manipulate their pimples, which is very common, however, it makes acne much more resistant to treatment,” Dr. Markowitz explains. “This is the most important variable besides the medications that help prevent the formation of pimples. From an over-the-counter perspective, [patches] are probably the most helpful item available.” Of course, you also want to make sure that you don’t have an allergy before using any new kind of medication. If you apply a pimple patch and notice a rash or other symptoms around the area, take it off immediately and consult a dermatologist or physician. “They are very safe, [but] the only thing that is not safe about something sitting on your skin is if you have an adhesive allergy,” Dr. Markowitz adds. “Then it could potentially make things worse.”

Why do pimple patches turn white?

If you have ever used a pimple patch in a hurry before, you may have noticed that the patch itself often changes color—namely, to white. Before the popaholic in you gets excited, no—that change of color is not the pus leaking out of your blemish. Actually, that color transformation is indicative of a chemical reaction happening below the skin.  View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Hero Cosmetics (@herocosmetics) “There are two main types of pimple patches—one that is thicker usually a more yellow color, composed of hydrocolloid (like the Mighty Patch) and the other is thinner more transparent and can be impregnated with anti-acne ingredients (like Acne Spot Check by SLMDskincare),” Dr. Lee explains. “People actually mistakenly believe that they turn white because the pus is being pulled from the pimple. However, the hydrocolloid, when in contact with warm skin and some exudate, with liquefy (it’s an enzymatic reaction of the hydrocolloid ingredients) and this would happen if you put anything that is ’liquid’ under there—even milk or strawberry jam for instance.” So, no, patches don’t turn white from pus exuding, but it is still interesting to think about what’s going on below your skin’s surface. “Hydrocolloid is really only there to keep the area moist and speed healing but does not speed up resolution or treat a pimple specifically,” Dr. Lee adds, “which is why I prefer patches that have anti-acne ingredients in them because then they serve their purposes properly: to keep you from picking the pimples and to administer acne treatment directly to the pimple.” Dr. Markowitz adds that a patch turning white is an indication that it’s time to take it off and potentially reapply a new one. “Anything that sits on the skin for a period of time can cause an anaerobic environment,” Dr. Markowitz says. “When that happens, you start to see skin macerations which is whitening wetness of the skin which causes the whitening effect. That’s a sign that it’s time to take the dressing off and change it.”

Do pimple patches work on cysts?

In general, pimple patches are most often recommended for effective use on straight-forward pimples—whiteheads, blackheads, and overall painful, just-developing acne. View this post on Instagram

A post shared by SLMD Skincare (@slmdskincare) “Pimple patches are going to work best on active red painful pimples,” Dr. Lee says. “If they have salicylic acid in them, they can additionally work on blackheads and whiteheads because salicylic acid helps to eradicate dirt and debris from within your pores which causes whiteheads and blackheads.” Unfortunately, pimple patches aren’t exactly known for eradicating cysts or cystic acne. Most cysts need to be examined by a dermatologist and removed properly to avoid re-growth. “None of these will do anything to make an epidermoid cyst go away, but patches can help to keep your hands off of cystic acne,” Dr. Lee adds. “However, if you have severe enough acne to get cysts, you should see a dermatologist who can prescribe stronger acne medications.”

How long should you wear a pimple patch?

Before adhering a pimple patch, it’s important to read the directions as different patches may have varied instructions. Still, according to Dr. Lee, “I would suggest you can wear one up to 24 hours but if you take a shower, etc., it’s time to change the patch.”

Can you use a pimple patch on a popped pimple?

Now that you know just about every which way to use a pimple patch on all kinds of zits—blackheads, whiteheads, red, angry ones, cystic acne, and more—you may be wondering if pimple patches—specifically, the Mighty Patch—can work its wonders on a pimple that’s already popped. Does a patch make a popped pimple heal faster? Does it reduce the swelling associated with an angry, popped pimple? “Sure, you can use any pimple patch on a popped pimple to help it heal faster,” Dr. Lee explains. “Keeping your hands off the area and also keeping the area moist will help speed healing.” Next up, the best 25 pimple-popping videos of all-time.

How Do Pimple Patches Work  Dr  Pimple Popper and Dermatologists Explain - 6How Do Pimple Patches Work  Dr  Pimple Popper and Dermatologists Explain - 81